| Drive
rare earth magnets
Want free rare earth magnets? Got a dead hard drive? You're
in business.
What, you might be wondering, are super-strong magnets doing
inside a magnetic storage device? You're meant to keep magnets
away from your drives, aren't you?
Well, yes, you are. A sufficiently strong magnetic field
across the storage surfaces can destroy data in short order.
And, since the drive platters spin rapidly, a magnet sitting
on one side of them will present a nice oscillating field
over the whole disk, from the platters' point of view.
But this is one of those situations like putting metal in
a microwave oven. Popular wisdom is "Don't do it, ever",
but that's only because the situations in which you can do
it safely are complex enough that it's not a good idea to
tell all and sundry about them, in case they get it wrong.
Hard drive manufacturers know it's OK to put magnets in a
hard drive. Which is good, because no modern drive would work
without one.
Old hard drives use stepper motors for their head positioning.
Stepper motors rotate by one precisely defined small amount
- one "step" - every time they're fed a current
pulse. Which makes them a good way to make something like
a hard drive read/write assembly move by the small steps needed
to position it accurately over tracks on the drive.
Steppers are slow, though, and they're position-sensitive
(the heads will end up in a slightly different place if the
drive's tilted), and they're sensitive to temperature changes,
and they wear out.
An alternative head motor design, which is used by all drives
these days, is the voice coil. There's a coil next to a permanent
magnet; when current's passed through the coil, it creates
its own magnetic field, which interacts with the static field
from the permanent magnet, and moves the head arm one way
or the other depending on the direction of the current.
This motor design isn't at all precise, so there are "servo
tracks" on the drive platters, which the heads read to
allow the drive to tell where they are. That information lets
the drive use a feedback mechanism to get very good precision.
Presto, cheap super-high-track-density commodity hard drives.
Voice coil motors are better than steppers, because they
have no temperature or position sensitivity to speak of, they're
fast, there are no motor bearings to wear out, and they cost
less.
The reason why these motors are called voice coils is that
the early ones had the same straightforward cylindrical design
as the voice coils in speakers. So that's the name they got.
Then came various curved-magnet designs, but nowadays consumer
drives all have simple swing-arm motor arrangements, with
flat bent magnets that're magnetised lengthwise - with a pole
at each end.
If you've got yourself a dud hard drive that you'd like to
relieve of its magnets, it's easy enough to do.
You'll very probably need a Torx ("star") screwdriver
set to get into the drive. You can engage Torx screws with
Allen keys or a flathead driver of appropriate width, but
that's not an optimal solution. Fortunately, Torx quarter-inch
hex bits will do the job, and are cheap; you need just one
hex bit driver to match, and they're cheap too.
All it took to get the lid off this 1.2Gb Seagate was peeling
off the sealing tape around the sides. Built for combat, this
drive was not. But the parts inside are attached with Torx
screws.
Commodity hard drives these days aren't the big-magnets goldmine
that old voice coil drives were; if you can find yourself
a 5.25 inch full-height voice coil monster drive, you'll get
better magnets out of it. Advancing technology has allowed
the manufacturers to make do with fewer and smaller magnets.
Inside the Seagate there's just one magnet - it's the thing
above the coppery voice coil, here.
Here's the head assembly and magnet bracket removed from
the drive. You have to remove the platters to remove the head
assembly. Just unscrew everything in sight and it's easy enough
to slide out the platters, which frees the heads and lets
you lift everything out.
The two-piece magnet holder in this drive was, as usual,
held together only by the strength of the magnet - but that's
plenty. The holder effectively contains the magnetic field
to the small gap that the voice coil sits in; there's a little
magnetism on the outside of the holder, but it can barely
hold a paper clip against gravity. This is why the magnet
doesn't damage data, despite being right next to the platters.
The magnet in this drive is attached to its base plate with
a few dots of glue, some little locating nubbins, and, once
again, its own bodacious magnetic field. There's nothing wrong
with leaving a hard drive magnet attached to its base plate,
if you don't need both sides of it uncovered. The steel plate
makes the magnet much less prone to breakage. NIB magnets
are brittle, and flat thin hard drive magnets commonly snap
while people are playing with them.
Here's another hard drive magnet assembly, with four separate
magnets this time. These are neodymium magnets without any
protective plating; under the shiny plating, all neodymiums
look like ordinary ferrites.
Because it's so easy to get magnets out of hard drives, there
are lots of these things in the surplus market. ForceField
have a few of them; they sell this good-sized drive magnet
for $US2, and have this pair of really chunky ones on a plate
for $US12.50, for instance.
Hard drive magnets have their uses, but less fragile shapes
are better for many applications.
Like what, I hear you ask.
Stuff to do
Apart from making all of your magnetic science experiments
work the way they're meant to (NIBs make it easier to push
a grape, and they bounce better, too), there are useful things
you can do with rare earth magnets.
No, really, there are.
I've used the things as general hold-downs for things that
I want to sit still on a ferromagnetic surface. I've used
one to make a magnetic latch for a window screen. I've also
used them as screw holders - pretty much any magnet will do
for holding screws removed from some gadget you're taking
apart, of course, but with a NIB magnet you just have to toss
the screw vaguely near the magnet and it'll leap onto it.
You can use NIB magnets to hang tools from, as shown above,
but they can work as an impromptu tool belt as well. Instead
of dropping that pointy screwdriver into your pocket, where
it'll do its best to make a hole in the lining and, subsequently,
you, you can put a magnet in your pocket instead. Now, you
can stick the screwdriver to the outside of your jeans. And
it'll danged well stay there, too.
As will rather larger objects.
Use of mystic voodoo words and magic hand-movements as you
adhere tools to your clothing may be called for, depending
on the size and gullibility of your audience.
Those who appreciate bodily adornment can adhere a ferromagnetic
bauble to their earlobe - or any other fairly thin body part
- by putting a little NIB magnet on the other side. Use a
couple of the big spheres on either side of your hand and
you look like a very hard-core body modifier. Use big magnets
on your ears and you will shortly look like an incompetent
boxer.
There are, of course, lots of other experiments, simple and
complex, you can try. Done with ferrite or alnico or simple
steel magnets, they're underwhelming. Done with NIBs, they
really work.
This is only scratching the surface of things that can be
done with powerful magnets. If you want to make your own permanent
magnet electric motor (which can be very simple) or alternator,
neodymiums will make it work better than any other kind of
magnet. Want to play with diamagnetic levitation? Can do.
Do you prefer superconductor levitation? No problem.
And then there's art. You can make sculptures out of rare
earth rod magnets and steel ball bearings; there's a toy that
works this way, too.
And then there's magnetic braking.
Move a high-powered magnet around on a thick non-magnetic
conductive surface - a slab of aluminium or copper, for instance
- and you can easily feel magnetic braking at work. The stronger
the magnet and the more metal there is (the base of a chunky
CPU cooler is an excellent candidate for this experiment,
and I've got a few of those kicking around...), the stronger
the "syrupy" feeling you'll get. The magnet isn't
attracted to or repelled from the surface, but it just doesn't
want to move.
The reason this happens has to do with Lenz's Law. When the
magnetic field around a conductor changes - because it's being
moved past a magnet, for instance, or because a magnet is
being moved past it - a current is induced in that conductor.
This happens even if the conductor is just a chunk of metal
that you're holding in your hand. Lenz's Law states that the
current induced in a conductor by a changing magnetic field
will flow such that it will produce its own magnetic field
which opposes the original change in the external magnetic
field.
So, basically, when a conductor moves relative to a magnet,
the current induced in that conductor tries to stop it from
moving. The bigger the field change - because of a stronger
field, or faster movement - the stronger the braking force
due to Lenz's Law will be.
I've got a piece of aluminium tubing with a half-inch outside
diameter and a 3/8th inch bore, which happens to just neatly
fit the little disc magnets from the ForceField grab bags.
The tube's 157cm long. Drop these disc magnets, or pretty
much anything else, from a height of 157cm and they'll take
about 0.57 seconds to hit the ground, thanks to the 9.8 metres
per second per second acceleration of gravity.
A couple of the discs stuck together (to stop them tumbling)
and dropped down the tube, though, take almost exactly 30
seconds to emerge from the other end. Magnetic braking.
Magnetic braking is used for oscillation-damping purposes
in all sorts of things. You'll find magnetic dampers on laboratory
balances, for instance; a simple aluminium or copper tag on
the end of the balance arm, moving between two strong magnets
attached to the balance's frame, is the perfect way to stop
the balance from oscillating for ages before settling on a
reading. You could damp the pivot point mechanically instead,
but then it could stick in a slightly off-balance state. Magnetic
damping has no stickiness.
Before strong enough magnets to make magnetic damping practical
were available, scientists had to be able to read the centre
point of an oscillating balance. It was normal to take your
reading before the thing had stopped swinging.
Magnetic dampers are used in a variety of other hardware,
too. Turntable tone arms, for instance - generally the ones
that look like part of an electron microscope. And better
surveying telescopes, which need to be, and stay, level. Not
to mention, of course, home-made seismometers.
Seriously.
And some rather larger gadgets.
And then there's magic. Magicians like to refer to neodymium
and samarium cobalt magnets as psycho-kinetic or "PK"
magnets, because those are the sorts of tricks they're commonly
used in.
ForceField have a list of serious and not-so-serious magnet
uses here.
Oh yes. There's also...
Ferrofluid
Ferrofluid is, to use the proper scientific term, freaky.
It's a colloidal suspension of minuscule (roughly ten nanometre)
magnetite particles in a liquid base. In English, that means
it's magnetic liquid.
It's possible to make the stuff yourself, but normal humans
will do better to buy some. I ordered a 100ml bottle for $US30
plus shipping from Educational Innovations, who sell all sorts
of things that science teachers need. Or don't need, but want
anyway, because if you're going to have to deal with annoying
teenagers all day for not enough money, you might as well
play with some cool toys by way of compensation.
In the absence of a magnetic field, this Ferrotec EFH1 ferrofluid
looks like rather runny black machine oil. It's only got a
viscosity of 6 centa-Poise (cP) at 27 degrees Centigrade;
water's viscosity is a hair over 1cP.
Put a magnet under it, though...
...and things get weird. The interaction of the magnetic
field, the surface tension of the ferrofluid and gravity results
in the formation of stable spikes of liquid. The spikes are
still liquid - touch one and you'll just get an oily finger
- but if you don't move the magnet, they look like a solid
sculpture.
The stronger the field, the smaller the spikes. In the weedy
field from a ferrite magnet you'll get just a smooth mound
of fluid with a few spikes where the field is strongest, but
the spikes get a lot smaller when you're playing with one
of the bigger neodymium magnets.
Here, the ferrofluid's on a china plate, and the two flat
hard drive magnets from the ForceField collection are under
the plate (and stuck quite firmly to it by their attraction
to the fluid). The drive magnets have a very intense field
close to their surface, so the spikes are tiny.
This is the three large spherical magnets, stuck together
end to end and lying under the plate. A fairly strong field
at each end with a noticeable tendency towards the other end,
and a weak field from the ball in the middle.Three doughnut
magnets in a row. Not a very strong field, but interesting
lobes.
Ferrofluids are weak magnetic materials - they have a low
"saturation magnetisation". The saturation magnetisation,
measured in Gauss, is the maximum value of the magnetic moment
per unit volume when all the domains are aligned. In English,
it's how strong the attraction will be between a given substance
and a magnet of a given strength. This ferrofluid's got saturation
magnetisation value of 400G, compared with 17,000G for iron.
With a neodymium magnet pulling on it, though, 400G saturation
magnetisation is quite enough to make ferrofluid to defy gravity.
Some smaller neodymiums in a test tube, lined up to attract
the magnets that are already hanging from the bottom of the
plate in which the ferrofluid's sitting. Ferrofluid flows
upwards in a, frankly, fairly disturbing way, until equilibrium
is reached.
Let the test tube down until it touches the plate and you
get this "frozen splash" spike formation.
Lift the tube up again and it's got its own little spiky Afro.
The base liquid in this ferrofluid is mineral oil, so it
won't evaporate noticeably, unless you wait a really long
time. On the down side, the stuff coats every surface it comes
into contact with, and you can't magically haul it off that
surface with a magnet. Not quickly, anyway.
Leave it for a while, though, and most of the ferrofluid
on a surface will migrate towards a nearby field.
This petri dish and its lid were well coated with ferrofluid
after I'd been playing with magnets above and below it, but
a day later when I took this picture, all but a thin film
had been sucked in to the magnet I left stuck to the bottom
of the dish.
Still pictures are all very well; you've really got to see
the stuff in motion, though.
Accordingly, feel free to download this 986 kilobyte MPG
clip of me waving a magnet around under the petri dish.
In case you're wondering what the heck this stuff is good
for, the answer is: Lots of things.
You'll see ferrofluid referred to a lot when people talk
about hi-fi speaker drivers, because it's used as a damper
fluid to reduce unwanted resonances, and for cooling too -
the fluid conducts heat from the coil to the magnet structure
much better than a plain air gap would. The strong magnetic
field in the voice coil gap of a speaker driver is more than
adequate to hold the ferrofluid in place. Ferrofluid damping
is used in various CD-ROM and DVD-ROM drive pickup actuators,
too.
If you want to seal a rotating shaft with a pressure differential
across the seal, or in a high-speed situation where you really
don't want dust getting in, you can use ferrofluid, retained
by a magnet around the seal point, as a "liquid O-ring"
that won't wear out.
Ferrofluid based on a volatile carrier liquid can be used
to trace magnetic fields in things - you can paint it onto
a magnetic tape, for instance, wait for the carrier to evaporate,
and then microscopically examine the particle pattern that's
left.
There's no shortage of scientists playing with "smart
fluids".
Incidentally, since this stuff ended up costing me about
one Australian dollar per cubic centimetre, I was interested
to see how much of it I could recover from a fluid-covered
plate that had already dripped about all it was going to drip.
The stuff behaves like oil and can be cleaned off surfaces
with the oil-cutting volatile solvent of your choice, but
I wondered whether doing this would damage the surfactant
on the magnetite particles, or otherwise screw up the colloidal
suspension.
So after taking various of the above pictures and draining
off most of the oil, I washed off the plate I was using with
electronic cleaning solvent, decanting the result into a spray-can
cap. The dilute ferrofluid/solvent mixture still reacted to
a magnet, but not at all strongly - a vague mound of fluid
following the magnet around was the best it managed.
I evaporated the solvent by floating the container in a saucepan
of boiling water. When the mixture stopped bubbling, I took
it off the heat and tested it again. Result - lots of lovely
little spikes. It seemed to be good as new.
Mind you, a great big splodge of ferrofluid on a plate only
yielded maybe one cubic centimetre, at most, of recovered
liquid. But if you're clowning around with the stuff all the
time, then you might as well not end up throwing away lots
and lots of expensive black magnetic paper towels.
If you want to see some more artistic ferrofluid fooling,
check out this, this and this.
It's like a real world screensaver.
Field viewing film
Related to ferrofluid but less freaky - and cheaper, and less
messy - is this stuff.
It's magnetic field viewing film, and here it's sitting on
top of a few NIB cylinders. Where the magnetic field through
the film is strong, the translucent film turns dark. Where
there's no field, it stays its native green colour.
A ring of the big sphere magnets (Forcefield kindly sent
me a couple more of them along with this film, and some other
bits and pieces).
A ring of little spheres, surrounded by the tracks left by
waving the film around over the magnets.
The film holds whatever field image it last saw, so you can
draw Magna Doodle patterns on it if you like.
Field viewing film behaves as it does because it contains
a colloidal ferromagnetic slurry (another flavour of ferrofluid,
basically), held in place by "gelatinous membranes".
When the nickel particles are floating free they let a reasonable
amount of light through; when they glom together in a magnetic
field, they look dark.
The film's cheap (three US bucks for a three-inch square
from Forcefield; $US12 for a six inch square), and it reacts
satisfyingly to quite mild fields.
Dragging the edge of a fridge magnet across it left this
pattern.
I managed to get noticeable intensity changes with a very
dinky electromagnet, made out of a hook-up lead wound a few
times around a spare AA battery and powered by four more flat
rechargeable AAs. And sitting the film on top of some old
ferrite magnets revealed otherwise invisible irregularities
in their fields. So this stuff could easily be used to detect
current flow in a wire, or for easy magnetic product quality
control.
Forcefield have a page with more viewing film pictures, here.
Daft ideas
For as long as the mystic power of magnets has been known,
people have been trying to do more mystic things with them
than are actually possible. Rare earth magnets make a lot
of independent thinkers very excited.
First, there are all of the medical applications. Lots of
people believe in using magnetic bracelets and bandages and
insoles and who knows what else to cure what ails 'em, and
what ails their animals, too. A Web search with the right
combination of words (like this one, for instance) will give
you magna-therapy sites galore.
People even use the things to help them deal with pain from
cancer. This article claims that Americans manage to spend
half a billion US bucks a year on therapeutic magnet products.
Well, at least part of that must be because "medical
magnets" tend to cost a lot more than apparently identical
- or, often, more powerful - ones from places like ForceField.
There's not much reason to believe that the things actually
have any non-placebo effect in humans or animals, despite
occasional positive studies, but if you're going to do it,
you might as well do it the cheap way.
Oh, and magnets will make you live forever, too. Well, OK,
maybe not, but Alex Chiu's not dead yet, is he? And he's a
celebrity!
Personally, I think The Onion said it best.
If you don't believe magnets'll prolong your life, there
are plenty of other crackpot theories involving them.
Fuel and water treatment, for instance. Strap magnets onto
water pipes and/or fuel lines, watch your water get cleaner
or your car run further on a tank of petrol.
Magnets can be useful in engine-preserving applications;
a magnetic sump plug will collect any stray metal shavings
in the engine oil, for instance. But that's not the idea,
here. Something much more mysterious is meant to be going
on, at the molecular level.
ForceField have a page about magnetic water treatment, but
it's not about how they believe in it - it's about how you
can build a magnet-doohickey using their products that's far
more powerful than far more expensive commercial units. Whatever,
if anything, the commercial units do, you can do for a lot
less. Fair enough.
Similarly, if you just know you can make a perpetual motion
machine if you just put enough darn gears in there, and maybe
another three gyroscopes and an endless belt with sponges
on it, you might as well get the magnets for your contraption
from a place that won't charge you too much for 'em. The proprietors
of ForceField seem to believe in the Laws of Thermodynamics,
but if you have different ideas, they'll sell you whatever
you want.
Mind you, if that's really your goal, it seems a lot easier
to get rich by just following these simple instructions, which
explain how to make people think you've invented perpetual
motion and/or free energy, without the tiresome requirement
that you actually do it.
Get some!
If you're sitting there wondering why you read to the end
of this page, and have not the slightest urge to crack an
old hard drive or buy yourself a bargain bag or two, that's
OK. But everyone I know really digs these things.
If you like playing with (relatively) cheap things that would
have been priceless 20 years ago - five dollar lasers, gigahertz
CPUs, super-bright LEDs - then allow me to highly recommend
a little bag of rare earth magnets as a fine addition to your
fiddle-toy arsenal.
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